Key takeaways
- INCI names come from an international dictionary and are not brand-specific.
- Botanical ingredients list the plant name and the part used.
- A trade name on the label is non-compliant even if the INCI is printed elsewhere.
The INCI name is the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients, and it is the only name that may appear in the ingredient list on a cosmetic label. Trade names, marketing names and common names are not substitutes, and a label that mixes them is non-compliant in every major market.
1. Where the names come from
The dictionary is maintained by the Personal Care Products Council and adopted by regulators worldwide. A name is assigned to an ingredient based on its chemistry and its function, and the same ingredient gets the same name regardless of supplier. That is what makes a label comparable across brands.
2. Trade names
A supplier sells a material under a trade name and publishes the corresponding INCI. The trade name may be used in internal documents and in marketing within limits, but not in the ingredient list. A label reading a trade name where an INCI belongs is the most common labelling error in small brands.
3. Botanical names
A plant extract is listed with the genus and species, the part used and the extraction medium, for example an oil or a water extract. A label that says only “aloe” is incomplete. The part matters because the leaf and the flower can have different compositions.
4. Mixtures
A blend sold as one material may need several INCI names, or a single name if the dictionary defines the blend. A fragrance is listed as “parfum” and its allergens separately when they exceed the threshold. A preservative blend may need two or three names.
5. Colourants
Colourants are listed by CI number, not by INCI name, and only the permitted ones may be used. A CI number that is not permitted in a market makes the product non-compliant regardless of the dose. The colour index is a separate schedule from the INCI dictionary.
6. Order on the label
Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration down to 1 percent, after which they may be listed in any order. Colourants may be listed at the end in any order. The 1 percent rule is a common source of error when a formula has many small-dose actives.
7. Below 1 percent
Ingredients below 1 percent can be grouped and ordered freely, which is why the tail of a long INCI list often looks unordered. Preservatives and colourants are conventionally listed at the end regardless of concentration.
8. Water
Water is listed as “aqua” and appears first in most formulas because it is the largest component. A formula that lists water below an active is either not water-based or is mislabelled, which is the kind of error a reviewer spots immediately.
9. Nano and special cases
Nano materials must be indicated in the EU, for example “titanium dioxide (nano)”. Some markets require additional disclosure for specific materials. The label has to reflect the actual particle size used, not the supplier’s default.
10. Review process
Run a formal INCI review against the formula and the supplier certificates before the artwork is approved. A change in supplier or in grade can change the INCI, and an unannounced change is a label error. The review is cheap and the reprint is not.
11. Where it fits
Labelling runs across the cleanser range; the full label checklist continues in the labelling entry.
Reference: INCI dictionary conventions and label review records, 2025
